Sumak Weaving

An Interactive Guide to the Wrapped Flatweave

Soumak · Sumach · A flatweave with structural depth

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Origins

Not woven, not knotted — wrapped

Sumak is a flatweave in which the weft yarn wraps around warp threads rather than simply interlacing through them. The wrapping motion — forward over two warps, back under one — creates a characteristic diagonal texture on the front face, while loose threads float across the back.

Named after the Azerbaijani town of Shemakha, the technique spans the Caucasus, eastern Anatolia, and northwestern Iran. Its three main variants each produce a distinct structural character: basic sumak for directional ridges, countered for herringbone, double for full reversibility.

2 + 1

warps forward, one back — per wrap

structural variants

1 000+

years of documented production

2-faced

double sumak — identical both sides

Three Techniques

Each variant, explained

Basic Sumak

The weft wraps forward over 2 warps, steps back under 1, then advances again. A plain "back thread" locks each row on the return pass. Front shows diagonal ridges; back shows floating yarns.

Countered Sumak

Adjacent rows wrap in opposite directions. Where the opposing diagonals meet they produce a herringbone or chevron pattern — no back thread is needed between rows.

Double Sumak

One continuous yarn wraps the front face on the forward pass, then wraps the back face on the return. Fully reversible, twice as thick, and the most labour-intensive of the three.

Comparison

Sumak vs. other flatweaves

Property	Sumak	Kilim	Pile rug
Weft action	Wraps around warps	Over / under only	Knotted + weft rows
Back face	Floating threads	Identical to front	Plain backing
Thickness	Medium–heavy	Thin and flat	Thick — pile height
Reversible	Double sumak only	Always	Never
Surface texture	Diagonal ridges	Flat, smooth	Soft raised pile
Durability	Very high	High	Pile wears over time

In sumak the thread does not merely pass — it embraces the warp, locks it, and becomes part of its structure.

— Principle of Caucasian weaving tradition

Uses

Where sumak is found

Floor rugs — primary use; structurally durable for heavy daily traffic
Bags & saddlebags (heybe, çuval) — the wrap's grip creates strong seams
Tent bands (yük yüzü) — long narrow sumak-woven structural belts
Mafrash (bedding bags) — Caucasian dowry chests woven in sumak
Wall hangings — especially double sumak for full reversibility
Contemporary upholstery — sumak texture in modern furnishing fabrics

Structure

Anatomy of the sumak wrap — labelled

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